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Text Box: Great Cities of
American History: 
Savannah 
and 
 Beaufort
- A Tour led by 
Richard M. McMurry 

November 14-17, 2012
Bonaventure Cemetery has been historically significant in Savannah for more than a century.

“It’s like Gone With the Wind on mescaline.”

Actor John Cusack describing Savannah in the movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil

 

Text Box:  

“In the beginning,” one historian has written, “was the river.” She originated far to the northwest where two lesser streams came together. From there she flowed southeast for almost four hundred miles, seeking her destiny (as all rivers do) in the ocean. Some eighteen miles before she reached her goal, the river struck a high bluff that deflected her current to the east, and her waters flowed past a series of islands that now bear such names as Hutchinson’s, Elba, Cockspur, and Tybee. Finally, her long journey ended, as she lost herself in the gray waters of the Atlantic.

 

The river was known by several names but, when the English came, they named her “Savannah,” for the surrounding area (truly a savanna).

 

In February 1733 a small group of English colonists, led by James Oglethorpe, came ashore at the foot of the bluff. Climbing the height, they founded the town of Savannah in His Majesty’s colony of Georgia (named for King George II, 1727-1760). Two motives lay behind the founding of the enterprise:  Georgia was to be a place where “the worthy poor” of England could get a fresh start (but probably no inmates from debtors’ prison ever came to the colony), and it was to serve as a buffer between the rich colony of South Carolina and the hated (and feared) Spanish in Florida.

 

Over the next 125 years Savannah grew and prospered. Enormous quantities of cotton poured into the city, first by river and later also by rail. From Savannah ocean-going ships transported bales of the white gold to the mills of New England and Europe. Later, lumber joined the city’s list of exports, and later still many kinds of manufactured goods.

 

During the Civil War, the city suffered from sea blockades so strict that the economy crumbled. "Impregnable" Fort Pulaski at the mouth of the Savannah River was captured by Union soldiers in 1862. The city itself did not fall until General William Tecumseh Sherman entered in mid-December after burning the city of Atlanta and everything else in his path on his "March to the Sea." Upon entering Savannah, Sherman was said to be so impressed by its beauty that he could not destroy it. On December 22, 1864, he sent a famous telegram to President Abraham Lincoln, presenting the city as a Christmas present.

 

Today, Savannah is one of the most picturesque and serene cities in America with its grand oaks festooned with Spanish moss, elegant architecture, ornate ironworks, fountains and lush green squares. Its genteel citizenry blends elegance and refinement with Southern sass.

 

Our program will begin on Wednesday evening at our base hotel, the Holiday Inn Express Savannah Historic District with a Welcome Reception and orientation. On Thursday morning, we’ll board our bus and begin a tour of the forts that surround Savannah.  From the beginning the city has been fortified to protect its inhabitants and its strategic port. In the early years, it was walled against the Spanish. Later, artillery fortifications protected it from the British, and during the Civil War, from the Northerners. Today the forts stand as fascinating memorials to U.S. History.

We’ll begin at Fort McAllister, on the bank of the Ogeechee River south of Savannah, and the home of the best-preserved earthwork fortification of the Confederacy. It was attacked seven times by Union ironclads, but did not fall until captured in 1864 by Gen. William T. Sherman during his “March to the Sea.” 

Next we’ll visit Old Fort Jackson, named after Revolutionary War officer James Jackson. The fort rose to prominence as the headquarters of Savannah’s river defenses during the Civil War. After lunch we’ll visit Fort Pulaski, where, on April 11, 1862, defense strategy changed worldwide when Union rifled cannon overcame a masonry fortification after only 30 hours of bombardment. Named for Revolutionary War hero, Count Casimir Pulaski, the fort was the first military assignment for a young second lieutenant fresh from West Point - Robert E. Lee. Then, we’ll stop at Fort Screven on Tybee Island, named in honor of General James Screven, a Revolutionary War hero. From 1897 to 1947, the fort was an integral part of America’s Coastal Defense system. Troops stood guard on Tybee through the Spanish American War of 1898, World War I and World War II.

On Friday, we’ll enjoy a narrated trolley tour in the Savannah Historic District. We’ll also visit the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist where we’ll take a look (yes, a look) at medieval theology – and we’ll tour the Green-Meldrin House, Sherman’s headquarters while his army occupied Savannah in December 1864.

 

On Friday afternoon, we’ll visit Midway Church, built in 1756, burned during the Revolution, and rebuilt in 1792. The church can boast of having two signers of the Declaration of Independence among its members – Button Gwinnett and George Walton.

 

On Friday evening we’ll board a riverboat for a 2-hour cruise on the Savannah River. Our dinner buffet on board will include shrimp & grits, beef top sirloin, herb-roasted chicken, seasonal vegetables, fresh fruit and wickedly delicious desserts

 

On Saturday morning, we will visit Bonaventure Cemetery with its massive moss-draped oaks and haunting memorial sculpture. Here are interred such notables as novelist Conrad Aiken, Confederate general Hugh Mercer, Governor Edward Telfair and legendary songwriter Johnny Mercer. In recent years, the cemetery has become renowned due to its prominence in the popular book and movie Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.

 

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Then we’ll drive the 46 miles to Beaufort, South Carolina, a gem of a city, colonized by the Spanish, French and British, and rich in the history of the American Revolution and Civil War. Here, we will embark on a non-strenuous, leisurely two mile stroll through the National Historic District, amidst some of the finest antebellum homes in America. We will hear of Indian wars, massacres, pirates, slaves, wealthy planters, the Revolutionary War, the Civil War, and the compelling stories of the brave and tenacious people of Beaufort who lived through these times. After lunch at a quaint restaurant on the waterfront, we’ll drive back to Savannah, arriving at our hotel in the historic district at about 4:00 PM.

 

What a rich and multi-faceted three day adventure this will be as we explore the unique history and culture of Savannah and Beaufort! We’ll visit historic forts, houses, churches and cemeteries. We’ll meet colorful characters, dine on delicious regional cuisine, and be educated and entertained by one of America’s most popular tour leaders. Join us!

 

ABOUT OUR TOUR LEADER

Richard M. McMurry is the author of many books including John Bell Hood and the War for Southern Independence, Two Great Rebel Armies: An Essay in Confederate Military History, and Virginia Military Institute Alumni in the Civil War, In Bello Praesidium. He is a veteran leader of American History tours.

 

Base Location & Lodging: We will be based at the Holiday Inn Express Savannah Historic District, 199 East Bay Street, Savannah, GA 31401 where we are reserving a block of rooms. A complimentary breakfast will be available each morning for all hotel guests. Soon, we will post instructions here on how to book a room under our block – and such lodging instructions will be sent to all registrants.

 

Parking: Valet parking for hotel guests will be available for a daily fee of $15.00 per day. Or use the public parking garage next door to the hotel – fees are less there.

 

If you fly into Savannah/Hilton Head International airport, take a taxi to the hotel – fares run about $25 one-way.

 

Registration Fee (lodging not included): $495

 

What is Included in Your Registration

·        the services of an expert historian chosen for his knowledge and experience   

·        Thursday, Friday & Saturday lunches

·        Friday riverboat cruise and buffet dinner

·        admissions to sites as described

 

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